I had heard good things about YEW restaurant + bar, but I confess that my main reason for going there was to see the space. Well, neither food nor space disappointed. The food was amazing, the presentation beautiful, and the service was spot on.
The first thing you notice is the insanely high ceiling. I mean, I’m short so everything seems really high, but I can’t remember the last place I went that had ceilings this high. Possibly a high school gymnasium, not that a high school gymnasium has anything else in common with YEW.
The service was impeccable. Our server managed to hit the perfect combination of friendly and inviting without crossing the line to irritating and nosy. We asked him about the wine list, the food, and the decor in the room. He knew the names of winemakers, what was in the beet puree, and where the wood from the bar came from. Very impressive.
He was also very adept in the art of the upsell. YEW offered a few extras to their Dine Out Vancouver menu, from an extra $4 for an appetizer (I can’t remember what) to an extra $12 for a 16-oz steak. Well, he upsold me because I ordered the steak. But let’s back up for a second.
I started with the sablefish, which was delightfully buttery and perfectly cooked. It came with an arugula salad on microbroccoli puree. Microbroccoli tastes very similar to plain ol’ broccoli, but slightly sweeter and less woody. The scallion pancake was a tad on the oily side. The plate was finished with a drizzle of miso reduction, which had a great balance of sweet, salty and savoury.
The red salad was very nice, with roasted red beets (and the aformentioned beet puree), wine-poached pears, and a carefully arranged slice of goat cheese. The winning appetizer was definitely the cauliflower soup. Perfectly smooth and full of cauliflower flavour, it popped in your mouth and then faded away as it slipped down your throat.
The miso salmon was perfectly cooked and very tasty. It was served on a bed of broccolini and gai lan (Chinese broccoli) with a streak of butternut squash puree. The plate was beautiful. There was also a venison on nicely al dente saffroned risotto.
I was entranced by the upsell, and got a 16-oz steak. It was perfectly cooked (medium rare) with a lovely crust. To be perfectly honest, I was more interested in the sides: horseradish spinach, and bone marrow pomme puree. My god, the pomme puree was delicious. For my birthday, I would like a large bucket of bone marrow pomme puree and a spoon. That’s all.
Then it was dessert. I was so impressed by dessert, I’m devoting an entire post to it. Tomorrow, suckas!
YEW restaurant + bar
791 West Georgia Street (2nd floor in the Four Seasons Hotel)